DOMAINE DYCKERHOFF
Reuilly, France
Christian and Benedicte Dyckerhoff run their small domaine of 6 hectares in the countryside west of Bourges, about an hour west of Sancerre. They’ve only been making wine since 2004, but the results are fantastic. Crisp, nuanced and savory Sauvignon Blanc.
Reuilly is a small town, and a small appellation, with only 150-200 hectares under vine, in a region better known for growing cereal these days. But its wines have been among the most celebrated in France in centuries past. (The town still boasts a road sign: ‘Reuilly – ses vins – sa lingerie’. Apparently lingerie was a major industry 100 years ago.) It shares the same geology as Sancerre. While it is less expensive than Sancerre, many would argue that the wines are of equal quality. It benefits from a very high lime content in the soil, and though hilly, the altitude is lower than Sancerre. Harvests are often a week or two earlier in Reuilly than Sancerre.
Three grapes are allowed, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris for vin gris and Pinot noir for rose blends and red. The Dyckerhoffs grow all three, though Sauvignon is by far the most important. They make one wine from each grape. They vinify at the Chai de Reuilly, which is a co-operation cellar, rather than a co-operative. In other words, the growers share the facility, not grapes.
Should you ever have the chance to visit, you can cast a line in one of their trout ponds, as fish farming is their other line of business.
Wines
Domaine Dyckerhoff Reuilly Blanc
Domaine Dyckerhoff Reuilly ‘Petit Gris’ Rosé